I was in Kings Canyon National Park filming my On The Trail web series for work, when I had a really intelligent idea. Why don’t I hike across the mountain range? Start on the west side, end on the east side. It’s merely a day hike, and I’ll prove it!

It was October, so I’d have to figure out logistics quickly. Once it starts raining and snowing, the roads would close, and that would be it until next year.

I looked at a map and saw it was only about 13.5 miles as a crow flies from Roads End in Kings Canyon, to the Onion Valley trailhead on the East Side. Add a bit for terrain and a meandering trail, and my overly positive attitude said it’s probably around 20 miles, and totally doable.

Now…about that car situation for a one-way hike.

I did a little digging online, and found a few message boards from a handful of people who had done the same thing. Dropping off a car on one side, then getting a ride back was a possibility. Not ideal, but a friend working on the East Side was willing to drive a little out of her way and pick us up on her way back to visit Fresno. Then I came across a genius scheme…but I’d have to rope someone else into the hike.

We’d switch cars here in town, then drive to opposite trailheads. We’d start hiking toward each other, high five when we passed each other, and continue on to our car waiting for us on the other side.

The next week at the climbing gym, which is full of outdoor/adventurous types, my friend approached me about a good trail to hike with his mom. I think I gave him an answer, then half jokingly said he should just hike up and over the Sierra next weekend. To my surprise, he said sure! That was easier than I thought.

We switched cars the following Saturday, with plans to do the hike on Sunday. Since it was my idea, it was only fair that I suffer the most. My partner and I would hike in the direction with the most elevation gain and the longest drive after the hike, which was west to east. My friends would drive my car to the East Side and hike east to west, which was mostly downhill.

We would get on the trail around 5 AM, and they planned to start around 8 AM. I figured we’d meet somewhere near Bullfrog Lake with our head start.

We got to the trailhead at 5 AM, only for me to find my headlamp had turned itself on in my pack and was now dead. No biggie, I had extra batteries. Still didn’t work. Sigh. I need a new headlamp. Ok, I’ll use my phone’s flashlight. By the time I wandered around in the dark, failing to find the vault toilet, it was 5:30. I hate getting a later start than planned, so I was irritated as we headed out.

That negative energy disappeared almost immediately. We were surrounded by darkness, but I could imagine the granite walls towering over us, and the fall colors on the leaves as we walked along the trail.

We walked across the bridge and a dry creek bed, then on to the first of many switchbacks of the day. It was now dawn, and I could make out the outline of mountains. I’d never hiked along Bubbs Creek before, and I couldn’t wait to see it in daylight.

The first 5 miles (after we could see) were gorgeous, but uneventful. I think we passed 2 or 3 people, including some trail runners. It’s such a cool feeling to know you’re one of very few people in that wilderness area. When you do see humans, it’s almost an instant bond. Like whoever this person is that I’m passing by at 6 AM in the middle of nowhere must be a lot like me, and we should be friends. We say good morning, and leave it at that.

I always feel incredibly lucky to live where I do during these times. This is my backyard. This breathtaking scenery and fresh air is a day trip, and I can take a shower and sleep in my warm, mosquito-free bed at the end of it.

As the sun was rising, it was reflecting off Bubbs Creek, making it sparkle. It was hilightling the reds, oranges, and yellows of leaves. It was being filtered through the trees, waking up whatever was in the line of light. I was happy.

Around 8:40 AM, my partner was ahead of me as I walked by a rustling bush. My first thought was squirrel, since it’s always a squirrel and never anything bigger. I walked a few yards farther, then decided to turn around and look. There was still rustling, and I thought, aw, maybe a deer will come out! I aimed my vision a little higher to prepare for the deer, and not a squirrel.

To my surprise, it was shorter, browner, and more bear-like!

My first thought was that I was far too close and breaking wildlife rules. You should be able to hold your thumb out, close one eye, and the whole animal should be covered by your thumb. It’s the rule of “thumb,” and that’s when you know you’re viewing large wildlife at the proper distance.

I walked up the trail to increase the distance between us, and called my boyfriend to come back, assuming he wanted to see it.

It was a brown guy or gal with a little white spot on its chest, sort of like cream rolled up in chocolate. Hence, Swiss Cake Roll was named. He/she didn’t seem to care about us, and was on a mission for pre-hibernation goodies.

We watched Swiss Cake for a few seconds, before it started walking up the trail toward us. So I yelled heyyyy at it, and it changed its course off the trail and into the woods. It gave us one last look, as if to say, “I don’t care about you, and you didn’t need to yell at me in my own home. Bye.” That was when I finally pulled out my camera, zoomed in, and snapped a photo. Look carefully – Swiss Cake is to the left of the trail, behind the bush.

That was my favorite part of my favorite day. Out of hundreds of miles I’ve hiked in the Sierra, I’ve only seen a bear on the trail one other time. I’ll remember this forever.

Around mile 10, we started hiking up and out of the valley, and the views really opened up. We could see surrounding peaks, and little waterfalls as the trail stayed next to Bubbs Creek. I was in heaven.

Mile 13ish was our turn onto the John Muir Trail. We’d be on this for about a mile before turning off to go by Bullfrog Lake. I started watching for our friends.

Right before we turned off the the JMT, there they were! How awesome! Our plan was working. We found a few rocks by the creek to hang out together for a half an hour.

I quickly learned that I was doing this hiking thing all wrong when my friend whipped out his french press and started making coffee. Everyone has their one luxury item in their backpack. Although, I’m not sure what mine is. Maybe my solar charger.

I think it was around noon, and they still had about two thirds of the hike to go. We explained where we parked each other’s cars, and parted ways. Guys, have people in your life who are crazy enough to agree to do something like this on a whim. This experience with these people is something that time won’t ever erase.

We branched off the John Muir Trail, and found what I believe is an unnamed lake. I initially thought it was Bullfrog Lake, and it was certainly beautiful.

I checked the map, and what do you know, it wasn’t Bullfrog Lake, but a bonus! We kept going, and made our way around the real Bullfrog Lake. It was glorious.

We had one more big hill to hike up, and that would bring us up to Kearsarge Pass. I’d be in familiar territory then, as I’d hiked up to the pass from the East Side before. I knew the final four miles would be all downhill.

The pass is steep, sandy, and a little slick, but you get stunning views all the way up. Kearsarge Lakes are below, and the jagged Kearsarge Pinnacles are across the way. This is one of my favorite Sierra views, at just shy of 12,000 ft in elevation.

As if we hadn’t seen enough incredible alpine lakes, the next 3ish miles take you past five more. I felt like I was walking in the clouds at that point. I was no longer going uphill, and I was actually going to complete the hike! I had walked up and over a massive mountain range in a day. I felt so good, I could have run the rest of the way!

My car was waiting in the parking lot, congratulating us on our feat. We had been on the tail for 10 hours, and actually hiking for 8 of those. It was around 3:30 PM, and we had a 4.5 hour drive ahead of us. I was working the morning shift at the time, and it doesn’t take many math skills to see that I’d miss my 6 PM bedtime. That 2 AM alarm for work the next day would come painfully quick, but I did not give one single care.

Half Dome had been my favorite trail since I moved to Fresno in 2015.

This adventure that I’ve been calling the Trans-Sierra route takes the lead. I’d do it again in a heartbeat. East to west next time, but only because I’ve already gone the harder way. First timers should definitely go west to east, and watch the views build and get better and better along the way, until the climax at Kearsarge Pass.

There you have it, that’s how you see the whole mountain range in a day.

I have a few crazy ideas up my sleeve for this summer, and I can’t wait to get back into distance hiking shape.

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