Distance: ~6.7 miles (National Park Service)

My rating: moderate to strenuous

This seems to be one of the most popular hikes in Yosemite Valley. It was the first hike I ever did in the park, and it can be very crowded. I recommend starting out very early – sunrise early – to get a few hours of peace and quiet. Also, crowds on the slippery stairs by Vernal Fall can make for a dangerous combination.

You can either take the free shuttle bus into Happy Isles and get dropped off near the trailhead, or if you arrive early enough, you can park in the lot near Happy Isles before the road turns into a “Buses Only” route. This will add on about a .5 mile hike to get to the actual trailhead, so it’s about an additional mile roundtrip.

Vernal Fall is the lower waterfall of the two, and is accessed via the Mist Trail. Nevada Fall has a couple of options. You can take the Mist Trail all the way up, which is the shortest route but to me, it’s the hardest because of the seemingly endless rock staircase by Vernal Fall. For longer routes, but gentler grade, the John Muir Trail to the Mist Trail is an option, or just take the John Muir Trail all the way up. If you opt for any version with the John Muir Trail, you will bypass Vernal Fall, but you will also bypass the stairmaster.

My personal favorite route is taking John Muir all the way up, then Mist Trail back down. The John Muir Trail provides a spectacular view of Nevada Fall with Liberty Cap and Mt. Broderick in the background. You save your legs while getting more mileage in, and the mist on the way down is welcome since it will likely be warm by then.

At the bus stop, there are flush toilets. Yay! There are also a couple of pit toilets along the trail.

The Happy Isles Bridge at the trailhead crosses the Merced River, a serene spot to hang out.

It’s about a mile to the footbrige of Vernal Fall. Every time I hike this section, I conveniently forget how tough it is. It’s paved, but mostly uphill. Some sections are steep, so expect to get your heart rate going and your legs burning.

There’s another toilet is on the other side of the footbridge, but I believe it’s seasonal and closed in the winter.

A few tenths of a mile past the footbridge, you come to the split for the John Muir Trail. Staying straight on the Mist Trail will lead you to the stairs and Vernal Fall. A sharp right will take you the longer, but friendlier, route to Nevada Fall. Let’s take the JMT.

The trail winds it’s way through the woods, providing little views through the trees as you gradually gain some elevation. At approximately mile 2, you reach Clark

Point. Enjoy the view of Nevada Fall!

You have two options here. You can go straight, which will lead you down to meet up with the Mist Trail ABOVE Vernal Fall. You get great views of the fall on the way, and it spits you out above the stairs.

 

The top of the fall is a great place for a lunch break, just be aware of the abundance of squirrels. They are very…we’ll call it friendly. In terms of food, they think what’s yours is theirs. There have been issues in the past with the plague, so seriously, DON’T feed the wildlife. Any wildlife.

You can continue on to Nevada Fall via the Mist Trail, or you can head back down (Mist Trail) to the trailhead.

 

Let’s go back to Clark Point, as we’re staying on the John Muir Trail to Nevada Fall. Take the sharp right to remain on the JMT. There will be a few more switchbacks, but in general, the trail will semi straighten out.

You’ll start to get some incredible views of Nevada Fall, Liberty Cap, and the back of Half Dome.

Follow the trail around, and it will open up and be mostly on granite. Take a break and enjoy the view, you’re almost there! When you see the footbridge you’ve made it to the top of the fall!

Time to have a photoshoot!

There are signs posted everywhere, but please mind them and stay OUT of the water. The river is nice and calm above the falls, but every season there are

unfortunate accidents. It’s tempting to swim because it can be very hot, but it’s not worth it. Plus, according to the National Park Service’s  website, it’s illegal. Rant over. 🙂

 

Ready to head down? We’re taking the Mist Trail! If you haven’t already, cross the footbridge. In about a quarter of a mile, head left to get on the Mist Trail. The third pit toilet is near here.

On the way down the Mist Trail, there will be a rocky area with switchback and a great view of the falls.

Take it all in!

You’ll soon be back down to the top of Vernal Fall. If it’s spring or early summer, get your rain jacket ready. Walking down the stairs is misty and slippery. Take your time, this area can be very crowded!

There is a little pullout part of the way down the stairs that is a good stopping point for pictures. Be on the lookout for rainbows!

Head back

to the trailhead, stop in Half Dome Village for pizza and maybe a beer. You deserve it!